PatentX is characterised by its exceptional magnetic force and the simultaneous shielding of the magnetic effect to the outside. This means that the magnetic force only acts on the locking surface, which prevents unwanted objects such as paper clips unwanted objects such as paper clips or other metal objects from being attracted.

What does PatentX offer customers?

• Security and convenience: Thanks to patented technology, our locks offer maximum security without compromising on convenience.
• Elegance meets function: Available in gold, silver and stainless steel, PatentX blends seamlessly into any piece of jewellery and makes it effortless to put on and take off - ideal for necklaces and bracelets that stand out and inspire.
• Innovative shielding: The magnetic force only acts where it is needed - no attracting unwanted objects. So the jewellery always takes centre stage.
• Powerhouse: Thanks to our patented shielding technology, PatentX offers up to 1.5 times more pulling force while remaining discreet and invisible.
• Sustainable and 100% Made in Austria: Rely on the highest quality and precision from Austrian production, which is valued worldwide.

Trust in over 50 years of experience - 100% Made in Austria.

Discover the clasp your jewellery deserves now.

King's Award Celebration Edition Durston Agile Elite Rollinmg Mills

Durston presents the new Agile Elite Rolling Mills, a first-class addition to the Agile series. Welcome to the King's Celebration Edition, an outstanding innovation from Durston, characterised by a robust, smooth powder-coated copper surface and a long list of amazing benefits.

The Elite models offer advanced features and tools to simplify your creative process. As a leading and innovative manufacturer, Durston is the epitome of excellence in goldsmithing rolling mills.

Properties:
• Rollers induction-hardened and fully supported
• Self-lubricating and completely maintenance-free
• Enlarged surface of the flat rolling, ideal for rolling pattern plates
• New T-Bar adjustment at the top for easier and faster turning
• Ergonomic, rotating handle for added comfort when rolling
• Rear drip tray, powder-coated white so you can see your parts clearly
• Ultimate strength for a lifetime of use with professional results
• Interchangeable extension rolls D-Shaped
• Reduction gear for effortless rolling

Additionally included in the scope of delivery: various D-shaped extensions from 2 to 10 mm, as well as wide profile extensions and a flat extension. The most common Durston pattern plate and a protective cover to protect the rolling mill from dust and dirt.

The innovative adjustable T-bar allows for effortless roller adjustment, while the white powder-coated rear catch tray ensures good visibility and easy retrieval of your parts. Experience the unrivalled quality and value of the Durston ‘King's Award Celebration Edition’. These rolling mills are not just a tool, but a lifelong partner on your creative journey. Each roller is uniquely numbered, and the first 1000 pieces offer an exclusive ownership experience.

The new generation of work tables for setters and engravers “Flexbo 4.0”, which are ergonomically designed, have been proven to improve working conditions and efficiency in the setting and engraving handcraft. They have been further developed in close cooperation with setters and engravers and are characterized by their ergonomics in several respects: all workbenches are electrically height-adjustable as standard and impress with many well thought-out, ergonomic detail solutions.

Details Setters‘ workbenches with pull-out drawer

• Extra-large table top made of solid beech in the size 138x75x4 cm
• Electrically height-adjustable frame with a working height of 90-140 cm
• Extending board in solid beech, black finish with strong, stable resistance pull-out and locking mechanism (prevents the board from sliding in on its own). The pull-out board is supplied with an upstand that can be removed at the front
• Filing/tool drawer underneath in solid beech, also in black, with removable upstand at the front for cleaning out filing residues.
• Optionally with upholstered, removable filing armrests made of black imitation leather and with 3D joint
• With two drawer columns, all drawers with full-extension drawers and soft-close function
• Left-hand drawer column with four drawers (optionally with central locking), right-hand drawer column with one drawer and a machine compartment, which can be subdivided individually using an adjustable intermediate shelf.
• Professional cable management with 5 sockets and 2x USB ports on the rear of the workbench
• Comprehensive range of optional accessories such as setter‘s microscope device, hinged multiple socket on the top of the table, recessed workbench protector, suction device, boardmaster shelves with/without work light, internal drawer dividers are available on request

Stay tuned, the new generation of setting and engraving tables will be available in mid-October!

Ultimate power, meet maximum precision.

The internal components of the new GRS Air Systems have been redesigned to significantly increase power while maintaining a consistent precision startup for fine cutting. These unique systems separate the control of speed and power. When you set the speed (strokes per minute) on the control box, the handpiece has the full range of power available by pressing the foot pedal or Airtact® hand control. This ensures the proper amount of power is always available, whether you are removing metal or cutting delicate shade lines.

Quality in every detail.

GRS Air Systems are designed to last as long as the heirloom pieces you create. Simple internal construction and precision-machined parts give our air The quality of GRS products starts with their engineers, who design innovative solutions with the artisan in mind. Every detail, from internal components to external design, has been carefully considered. A high-quality brushless DC motor and simple construction ensure durability, while the smaller outer box frees up valuable bench space. The modern aesthetics, streamlined interface, “true-click” switches, stainless steel knobs, and a larger foot pedal make these new air systems easier and more intuitive to use than ever before.

GRAVERSMITH®
No. 1 production machine used in factories worldwide

GRAVERMAX®
Trusted by luxury jewelers

GRAVERMACH® AT
Intuitive Control

Ultimate power in your hand

Maximize the power at your fingertips by utilizing the redesigned Airtact® handpieces and connect with your work in ways you never thought possible. The new 901 and Monarch handpieces’ responsive actuation gives the user intuitive control over every cut. The ergonomic handle shapes lend themselves to a natural hand position while engraving or setting stones. Crafted from heat-treated stainless steel, it boasts high-quality construction and a simplified, ready-to-use design.

The problem of testing gold jewellery

Authenticating gold jewellery is a major challenge. Due to the very diverse geometries (rings, necklaces and ear studs, etc.) and the composition (different mixed gold alloys in different carats), it is impossible to determine gold jewellery exactly using only one test method. The most common types of counterfeit jewellery are

• Counterfeit jewellery with base metals: This refers to the plating of a base metal with gold. This often occurs with rings or chains made of tungsten or tungsten carbide, whereby these materials almost perfectly imitate the density and thus the “heavy feeling” and feel of real gold jewellery.
• Under-alloying / hallmark fraud: If the gold content of an alloy is lower than specified by the hallmark.
• This can also be done in an even more sophisticated way, in that the surface of the piece of jewellery has the correct alloy and the underlying material is worthless foreign material or an inferior alloy.

Due to the large number of different types of gold alloys and jewellery geometries, the testing of jewellery is more demanding than that of gold bars, for example. The following testing methods should therefore be available when purchasing jewellery.

1. magnetic scale "MagneticScreenScale "
A sustainable method for measuring bars and coins is to determine the so-called magnetic susceptibility properties. This makes it possible to determine, even through blister packs and packaging up to a certain thickness, whether the material applied has the correct magnetic behaviour - para- or diamagnetic, i.e. attractive or repulsive. A so-called “tungsten detector” can be used to determine the presence of a potential foreign body: a gold bar as a so-called diamagnet displaces a magnetic field, creating pressure on the measuring head of the scale and displaying a positive value. If a supposedly genuine fine gold bar is placed on the scale and a negative value appears, it is in most cases a fake.

2. density scale "DensityScreenScale "
You can use the density scales to quickly and precisely determine the density of all types of materials. It is equally suitable for analysing bars and gold jewellery to determine their purity and alloy composition and to determine bars or jewellery that have been “stretched” or under-alloyed with silver or copper. The density is determined using the tried and tested method of Archimedes: To do this, the object is weighed with a sieve under water and once “normally”. The density can be determined directly from the two different values. This gives you an insight into the quality and carat of the gold or even an initial indication of the possible presence of forgeries. Determining the authenticity and gold content of geometrically irregular objects such as jewellery is therefore no problem.

3. surface testing with test acids or X-ray fluorescence analysis

• The gold coating sample with test acids: In principle, the first, relatively simple and cost-effective step is to determine the gold content using gold test acids.
• X-ray fluorescence analysis (XRF): This determines the exact elemental composition of the jewellery on the surface. This method is very expensive (approx. 15,000 - 45,000 EUR) and is purely superficial: the maximum penetration depth is only 0.010 mm.

Electrochemical testing using the "CaratScreenPen ".
The CaratScreenPen uses an electrochemical process to determine the purity and fine gold content on the surface of gold and platinum jewellery. The measuring tip forms a so-called “galvanic cell” on contact with the object lying on the measuring surface. This results in a certain electrochemical behaviour, which is registered by the measuring tip and processed by the device.

The complete and detailed article on the methods of gold testing can be found here:

Presidium OTi das ALL IN ONE combi tester

OTi by Presidium revolutionizes diamond authentication with its dual Optical/Thermal testing in a single probe, ensuring accurate distinction between natural and synthetic diamonds. It is a quick, cost-effective tool that ensures accuracy and trust.

In the Diamond & Jewelry Industry (D&J), the OTi by Presidium emerges as an essential tool for all professional users such as jewelers, diamond wholesalers/traders, pawnbrokers, in ensuring accurate disclosure to maintain the integrity of the trade.

OTi by Presidium (OTi) enhances the authentication process by accurately distinguishing natural diamonds from synthetics, crucial in an era of increasing lab-grown diamonds and simulants. With its dual technologies of Optical/Thermal testing in a single probe, it provides a cost-effective and fast, on-the-spot validation, to optimize operational efficiency and instilled consumer confidence in your diamond verification processes.

Features:
• User-safe function to shut off UV light when not in use
• Resistive Touch Screen
• Auto Shutdown Feature
• Low Battery Indicator
• 6 Languages user interface
• Stylish ergonomic design for portability and ease of use

Benefits:
• Help identify colorless diamonds against CVD/HPHT lab-grown colorless diamonds, all types of moissanite and all common diamond simulants such as Glass, Sapphire and Cubic Zirconia (CZ)
• Dual technologies of Optical/Thermal in a single probe for instant results
• Test on loose and mounted diamonds in all jewelry settings
• Replaceable Probe Technology to minimize equipment downtime
• Compact and portable design for on-the-spot testing
• Test on colorless polished diamonds of all proportional cuts with a minimum gemstone's table width of 1.6mm

in a minimalist design and high elegance. The Doubleclip is safe to use and immediately impresses with its quick and easy opening and closing. The innovative double locking mechanism keeps the chain reliably together at all times and gives the wearer peace of mind.

An acoustic “click” confirmation gives the user a feeling of security. The locking parts are movable and prevent the chain from twisting.

The clasp can be attached to almost any type of chain.

Basic

• Steel ring
• Rubber or leather by the metre

with eyelet

• Link chains (pea, anchor or curb chains etc.)
• pearl necklaces
• Stone chains

Your customer will love and appreciate the nau-like clasp in everyday use.

The double clip is available in stainless steel, gold and silver and in various diameters

Click here for the new clasps

In our extensive calibre database you will find more than 16,000 calibres, over 4,100 movements and interchangeabilities and around 160,000 watch parts registered.

Search our extensive database for calibre information, watch movement interchangeabilities and spare parts and find the matching movement parts listed quickly and clearly.

And this is how it works:

(1) Are you looking for specific spare parts for your repair? Simply enter the calibre number in the corresponding search field and then use the magnifying glass function to select the desired movement from the list.
Tip: The fewer digits you enter, the larger the selection list. This means that even calibre numbers that are difficult to recognise can be found. Conversely, you can also enter the manufacturer and the calibre, which will reduce the selection list and increase your accuracy.


(2) In the calibre data sheet you will find extensive and detailed information about the size and functions of the movement. Many calibres also have a pictogram.


(3) When you see this button, you can call up a detailed exploded view of the movement. The document is displayed using the free Acrobat Reader.


(4) Did you know that you can find out the interchangeability of the winding stems with the help of our calibre database? Compare the part number on our packaging with that of the calibre. Often different movements have the same winding stems. Reduce and organise your own stock and save money.


(5) For quartz or solar movements, the battery number is shown here.


(6) We have archived our spare parts for you under the heading Movement Parts. Here you can find the respective prices and the availability of spare parts.
Tip: If the spare part you are looking for is marked yellow or not listed, we may still have it in stock. Please ask for availability and price via our chat button. Many of our old, in-stock spare parts are currently not yet registered in the database and are just waiting for your request!


(7) In the movements section, we offer you replacement and exchange movements for the calibre you are looking for. Prices and availability are of course immediately visible and will speed up your quotation and procurement.

Witschi ALL IN ONE - WAIO

Witschi WAIO, the comprehensive watch check for your salesroom. Enhance the customer experience at the point of sale with the WAIO. The sophisticated device offers comprehensive, automatic measurement of mechanical and quartz watches. The sales staff check the tightness and chronometry directly on the sales floor and carry out demagnetisation. By analysing the WAIO, you can reassure your customers that their watches are in perfect working order, or you can provide them with well-founded arguments for servicing thanks to the results displayed.

Fully automatic measurement at the touch of a button. The WAIO is ready for immediate use and requires minimal operator training thanks to its user-friendly software. The large display guides you step by step through the measurement process. The measurement results are easy to understand, especially for people without specialised technical knowledge. Thanks to the extended display of the results, the exact and detailed results are of course also visible. Witschi Data Management. Thanks to the connection to WiCoTRACE 4, all measurement results are automatically saved and can be further processed and/or shared from there.

• Fully automatic measurement of mechanical and quartz watches with and without bracelet
• High-resolution 7" display with touch function
• User-friendly operation and easy-to-understand results display
• Precise measurement thanks to the latest measurement technology and algorithms
• Leak tests up to 5 bar with the built-in air compressor
• Measurement of the rate accuracy of mechanical watches in four test positions
• Measurement of the rate accuracy and motor pulses of quartz watches
• Effective demagnetisation of the watch with determination of the rate difference
• ScratchProtect prevents scratches on the watch
• Regular updates and functional enhancements over the air (internet connection required)
• Connection to WiCoTRACE 4
• Individualised programme creation and loading of specific measurement programmes per watch (only possible with WiCoTRACE 4)

Manufacturing techniques for watch straps

What does cut strap actually mean and what are the differences to a fully remborded or semi-remborded leather strap?

What characterises a leather strap “Made in Gemany” and how many work steps are required for this?

Cut strap (approx. 70 work steps)

The cut strap is the most common, but rather simple leather strap. It consists of a three-layer material - upper leather, filling material and lining leather. The leather is cut by using a cutting tool and the edges are then varnished.

With around 70 work steps, it is somewhat more complex to produce than the semi-remborded leather strap.

Semi-remborded or semi-crowned leather strap (approx. 50 work steps)

With the semi-remborded strap, the upper leather surrounds the body of the strap and the lining leather forms the end at the bottom. In contrast to the full remborded strap, the upper leather is not covered and sewn under the lining leather. It is therefore not the seam that holds the strap together but, as with the cut strap, only the adhesive. Due to the durability is this the optimal production method as it shows no open edges.

This production method could only be implemented with modern, environmentally friendly adhesives and the only approximately 50 work steps have lead to economical consumer prices.

Remborded or full wraparound finish leather strap (approx. 100-120 work steps)

With the full remborded leather strap, the upper leather is wrapped around the filling material and sealed from the lining leather by adhesion. On the inside of the leather strap is a breathable filling material which leads to a better ventilation effect (“aero lining”). All the layers are glued with each other. A thread is only a design feature. Semi- and fully remborded leather straps combine softness - depending on the upper leather - with high stability and durability.

With approx. 100-120 work steps, it is quite complex to produce, which is why it is preferably used for high-quality bracelets.

What you should know about our workbenches

Did you know that this month marks the tenth anniversary of our Flexbo workbench concept? We have been selling our workbenches to workshops and industry with great success for ten years - all over Europe! You will even find our workbenches in Buckingham Palace and the Munich Museum.

The current Flexbo 3.0 workbench concept is characterised by high functionality, great flexibility and outstanding workmanship. All workbenches are “made in Germany” and customised for watchmakers, goldsmiths and setters. A wide range of accessory options leaves almost nothing to be desired. The Flexbo workbenches are characterised by the following main features:

• Electric height adjustment, optionally with load capacity increase
• Stable, movable 3D armrests that do not wobble and can be adjusted in all directions
• all drawers with precise guide rails as well as soft-close and full-extension runners
• Professional cable routing, optionally with cable cover on the back
• Sophisticated accessory concept for storage shelves and drawer partitioning

Let our professional Flexbo 3.0 workbench concept convince you. You will find that we lead the watch and jewellery industry in terms of functionality, flexibility and quality of workmanship. We would be happy to provide you with a customised quote.

You can find our Flexbo 3.0 workbench brochure:

Weekend seminar on 27.04. and 28.04.2024 the PUK fine welding was a complete success!

The latest fine welding technology was the topic of the ‘PUK 6’ seminar, which took place again at the premises of Gebrüder Boley after a five-year absence. In cooperation with Lampert Werktechnik, we succeeded in organising another workshop on PUK fine welding after May 2019. The participants took the opportunity to test the handling and results of the latest generation of PUK 6 devices on fine welding machines.

The 2-day seminar took place this weekend on Saturday, 27 April and Sunday, 28 April 2024 under the direction of Susanne Englert, a trained master silversmith and teacher at the “Staatliche Zeichenakademie” in Hanau.

The participants were introduced to the PUK welding technique on both days on the following welding topics:

• Application of metals
• Welding silver
• Carrying out ring changes
• Welding ear studs
• Welding of settings
• Fixation welding
• Treatment of individual special applications
• and much more.

The participants had brought their own jewellery and watch pieces with them. Mrs Englert was able to use these as examples to work out solutions to problems for all participants and thus provide important tips for everyday workshop work. The focus was also on the exchange of experiences between the participants.

The participants spoke of a very successful seminar, which will be offered again in this form by Gebrüder Boley at regular intervals. We would like to take this opportunity to thank all participants and especially Mrs Susanne Englert for her participation and commitment.

We would like to thank all seminar participants and wish them continued success.

BOLEY WORKSHOP PUK FINE WELDING: 27-28.04.2024 IN STUTTGART

After five years of abstinence, we are pleased to be able to offer you a BOLEY WORKSHOP on PUK fine welding again today. In cooperation with Lampert Werktechnik, we have succeeded in organizing a workshop on PUK fine welding again after May 2019.

Under the leadership of Ms. Susanne Englert, master silversmith and, among other things, teacher at the stately drawing academy in Hanau, we offer you a weekend seminar with extensive training and exchange of experience on 27-28.04.2024 in our premises in Stuttgart-Degerloch. You will be trained on the latest devices “PUK 6” from Lampert Werktechnik and only need to bring your own jewelry and watches as practice pieces.

As a participant, you will be introduced to PUK welding technology, including the following welding topics:

• Application of metals
• Welding silver
• Making ring changes
• Welding ear studs
• Welding of settings
• Repairing metal bands
• Reconditioning of watch cases
• Treatment of your individual special applications

Please note that the number of participants is limited to 10. We therefore look forward to receiving your binding, written confirmation at support@boley.de or with the enclosed registration documents.

That was Inhorgenta 2024, everything is packed up again and the hall doors are closed.

25,000 visitors, 870 exhibitors and 4 exciting exhibition days - INHORGENTA 2024 is now history. The trade fair organizers recorded a 5% increase in visitors, with many of the first-time visitors coming from the Czech Republic, Switzerland, China, France, the Netherlands and Norway. “This large increase in exhibitors and visitors is a great confirmation of our new concept and I am already looking forward to implementing the plans for internationalization for 2025,” says Exhibition Director Stefanie Mändlein.

We can also look back on a successful trade fair and would like to present the latest trends and highlights from our stand today. You will find detailed product descriptions in the link below.

• Powerful and easy-to-use Marking laser "JewelLiner " with suction and extensive training documentation.
• New Leica Investa 3 microscope in a complete set with GRS Acrobat Versa holder
• New presentation of testing devices for testing real and labgrown diamonds from Presidium
• Demonstration of the new high-resolution Video inspection system TEC-Scope Plus.
• Easy and Gemlightbox photo studios with artificial intelligence
• Novel goldsmiths shaping tools or cutting out from Durston
• Tried and tested: fine welding device from Lampert PUK6 with microscope
• New presentation of press stamps for easy changing of RX glasses and bezels made of metal or ceramic.

50 years of Inhorgenta - and Boley was always there

This year we were also delighted to receive a special honor. In the presence of Ms. Stefanie Mändlein and Mr. Stefan Rummel, we were honored by the trade fair management for 50 years of uninterrupted participation as an exhibitor. We are delighted to receive this award and are also proud to have accompanied this trade fair as a partner over the years. We would therefore like to take this opportunity to thank you as visitors to this trade fair. Because you have also contributed to making this trade fair what it is today.

Redesigned exhibition stand

In order to be able to present our wide range of products to you even better and more clearly, we have enlarged and redesigned our stand this year. Machines and small tools awaited your expert inspection and use on the large platforms. Many visitors made extensive use of this opportunity to put our tools through their paces, pass on their opinions to us and make recommendations.

NATURAL VERSUS LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS

Did you know that there is one important difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds? Natural diamonds can contain nitrogen atoms or aggregates. Nitrogen is one of the most common impurity elements in natural diamonds and can affect their color and properties. The presence of nitrogen can lead to a yellow or blue color in the diamond. However, there are also diamonds that are almost free of nitrogen and are therefore colorless or of high purity. However, these diamonds make up only 1.8% of all natural diamonds. The laboratory-grown diamonds are either grown under high temperature and high pressure (HTHP = high temperature - high pressure) or produced using a chemical vapor deposition process (CVD = chemical vapor deposition). The artificially produced diamonds have no nitrogen atoms or aggregates. The testing devices for laboratory-grown diamonds make use of this distinguishing feature by detecting the presence of a nitrogen atom/aggregate in the naturally grown diamonds via UV light refraction.

Procedure for testing laboratory-grown diamonds:

The technology of the testing devices for purely laboratory-grown diamonds (ARI, SDS II) is not suitable for simulants such as zirconia or cubic zirconia and in these cases returns ‘diamond’ as the result. The conventional diamond tester “Diamondmate-A” (PDMT-A)" or the “Adamas” can help here, as it can identify cubic zirconia and colourless sapphires.

1st test step:
Therefore, test the stone in question in a first test step with the “Diamondmate-A”, the “Adamas” or Multitester III to ensure that it is indeed a diamond. If the tester has identified the stone as a ‘diamond’, it means that the stone is either a natural diamond, a lab-grown diamond or a moissanite.

2nd test step:
In a second test step using a tester for lab-grown diamonds (ARI, SDS II), you can then subdivide the natural diamonds from the lab-grown diamonds and moissanites.

Click here for the gemstone testers: